Our A/C Duct Cleaner (part # 760) effectively eliminates odors at its source caused by bacteria, mold and mildew in the system

The low side service valve is located in the line that runs from the compressor through the evaporator (firewall) and up to the condensor on the low pressure (suction) side of the system. R-134a Recharge hoses will only fit on the low side service port on all R1-34a vehicles and R-12 vehicles that have been converted to R-134a. If you don’t know where your low side port is you can try using our low side port finder.

The only fitting that the standard recharge equipment will fit is the low side service port.

You can view images of typical low side port locations here.

-Turn the valve handle of the charging kit counterclockwise until the piercing stem is in the up position. This will prevent accidentally piercing the can. Screw the charging kit onto the can.

-Attach the quick connect fitting to the low side service port.

-Start engine and put A/C settings on maximum cool with the fan settings on high.

-Turn the valve handle clockwise until the piercing stem has punctured the can.

-Turn the valve counterclockwise until you feel the refrigerant leaving the can. See packaging for complete details. Always wear protective gloves and eyewear.

The EPA requires that ANY replacement refrigerant MUST have unique fittings, charging devices and label. Therefore, the EPA states that “drop in” refrigerants are illegal. Furthermore, only R134a has been tested and approved by the original equipment manufacturers.

No. Federal law prohibits topping off an R12 system with a different refrigerant.

The answer here is two fold. It is possible that the system has a small leak, and now is low on refrigerant. This will allow the system to blow cold, but just not as cold as it used to. In this case check the low-side pressure and verify if the system is low on refrigerant. If it is low on refrigerant add refrigerant or a refrigerant with a stop leak to the correct pressure. If your pressure is correct adding additional refrigerant will not make the system blow out colder air, but will in fact cause the system become overcharged. This causes the system to work less efficiently and will result in warmer air blowing from the vents.

IDQ’s top off products contain the proper ratio of replacement oil.

We recommend using a pressure gauge to determine an accurate fill. Interdynamics’ color-coded gauges indicate whether you should continue filling (charging) or not. If you have just retrofitted from an R-12 system and had all the R-12 refrigerant removed, you should fill a system with R-134a at 80-85% of the original R-12 Volume. (Consult your owners manual or sticker under the hood for original R-12 volume).

Your system should be vacuumed if you have replaced a component part in the system, or if the pressure gauge indicates that the A/C system pressure is lower than 10psi.

When checking low-side pressure you will get two different pressure readings, one when the compressor cycles on and one when the compressor cycles off.  Use the pressure reading when the compressor is cycled on and the system is operating at its highest settings (temp to max cold and fan on high). When the compressor cycles on you should see the needle on your pressure gauge begin to drop. When the compressor turns off you will see the needle move back to a higher pressure. Take the reading that occurs when the pressure is at its lowest point when the compressor is cycled on. To tell if your compressor is cycling properly take a look at the following video.

Ambient temperature is simply the temperature of the air surrounding the car. The following automotive A/C chart outlines the proper pressure readings for a particular temperature range. For instance, if the ambient temperature (outdoor  temperature) is 75°, the corresponding low side pressure should be between 35-45 psi and if needed the corresponding high side pressure would be between 150-170 psi.

Does your gauge handle look similar to one of these?

If so, you have a T-handle or gauge handle recharge hose. Follow these steps to recharge your car. Remember to always wear safety glasses and gloves when recharging your vehicle’s A/C.

1. Determine the ambient (outside) temperature before starting to charge your car. If the ambient temperature is 55°F or below do not charge the car. To determine the proper pressure of your car’s A/C, set the bezel on the pressure gauge to the outside temperature and then read the corresponding pressure setting on the gauge. If your gauge does not have a bezel dial with the corresponding temperature and pressure, consult the pressure temperature chart. After determining the proper pressure for your AC system charge to that pressure.

2. Locate the low side port. Important note: only charge your A/C system through the low side service port. Never use the high side port to add refrigerant. Doing so is dangerous and could cause you harm. If you are having trouble locating your low side port, try using our low port location finder by clicking here. If you still cannot find your low side port, locate the large diameter aluminum line coming from the back of your car’s compressor. The low side port will be located somewhere along that line between the compressor and the firewall. Still can’t find the low side port? Give our technical help desk a call at 1-888-318-5454.

3. Remove the sealing cap from the low side port and wipe any dust from the port with a clean rag. Attach the hose to the low side port. Tug gently on the hose to insure a snug connection. Note: The hose will only connect to the low side port fitting. If the hose does not easily attach you are trying to connect it to the wrong port.

4. Turn the handle clockwise until it will not turn anymore. This extends the piercing needle into the top of the can.

5. Turn the handle counter clockwise to start the product flowing. By turning the handle counterclockwise the piercing pin retracts from the top of the can allowing the product to escape. To check the pressure, close the valve by turning clockwise until it will not turn anymore. Remember turning the handle so that it travels up is “”open”" and turning it so that it travels down is “”closed”".

6. Keep the can in the upright position when dispensing product. Rotate the can between the 12 o’clock and 2 o’clock position when charging. It is important to stop every 30-45 seconds to take a pressure reading on the system to prevent overcharging the system.

7. When the A/C is charged to the proper pressure, close the valve on the top of the can and remove the charging hose from the low side port. Replace the sealing cap on the low side port. Store any remaining refrigerant in a cool dry spot in your garage.”

“Does your gauge handle look like this?

If so, you have a trigger style recharge hose. Follow these steps to recharge your car. Remember to always wear safety glasses and gloves when recharging your A/C.

1. Determine the ambient (outside) temperature before starting to charge your car. If the ambient temperature is 55°F or below do not charge the car. To determine the proper pressure of your car’s A/C set the bezel on the pressure gauge to the outside temperature. If your gauge does not have a bezel dial with the corresponding temperature and pressure, consult this pressure temperature chart. After determining the proper pressure for your AC system charge to that pressure.

2. Locate the low side port. Important note: only charge your A/C system through the low side service port. Never use the high side port to add refrigerant. Doing so is dangerous and could cause you harm. If you are having trouble locating your low side port, try using our low side port locater. If you still cannot find your low side port, locate the large diameter aluminum line coming from the back of your car’s compressor. The low side port will be located somewhere along that line. Still can’t find the low side port? Give our technical help desk a call at 1-888-318-5454.

3. Remove the sealing cap from the low side port and wipe any dust from the port with a clean rag. Attach the charging hose to the low side port. Tug gently on the hose to insure a snug connection. Note: The hose will only connect to the low side port fitting. If the hose does not easily attach you are trying to attach it to the wrong port.

4. Squeeze the handle to start the product flowing.

5. Keep the can in the upright position when dispensing product. Rotate the can between the 12 o’clock and 2 o’clock position while you are charging. It is important to stop every 30-45 seconds to take a pressure reading on the system to prevent overcharging the system.

6. When the A/C is charged to the proper pressure remove the charging hose from the low side port and leave the trigger mechanism on top of the can. Replace the sealing cap on the low side port. Store any remaining refrigerant in a cool dry spot in your garage.

Not only is overcharging your system potentially dangerous, an overcharged system will not function properly and can seriously damage your A/C compressor or other component parts. The symptoms of an overcharged A/C system are exactly the same as a system that is undercharged: warm air out of the vents.
In order to prevent overcharging your A/C system it is imperative to measure the pressure before beginning to charge it. To measure the pressure in the A/C system, attach a pressure gauge to the low side port. Your car must be running with the A/C system set to maximum cool and the fan in its highest setting. It is important to note that the proper pressure in your A/C system is dependent on the ambient (outside) temperature. To determine the proper pressure for your system consult a pressure chart such as this one, or set the bezel arrow on your pressure gauge to the corresponding ambient temperature and charge to the pressure corresponding to that temperature setting. If the outside temperature is at or below 55°F do not charge your car. Also, never charge your vehicle above 55 Psi.

No. Your car’s A/C refrigerant never goes bad. Nor do you “use up” the refrigerant that is in your system. If your vehicle’s A/C system pressure is low, your vehicle has a refrigerant leak and that leak will need to be repaired in order for your system to hold refrigerant. If your vehicle is able to maintain a charge for a period of two weeks or longer, then it is possible to seal the leak with sealant such as Super Seal. If your system will not hold a charge for at least a two week period then it is advisable to seek professional assistance to find and repair the leak.

There are a number of possibilities. Your compressor may be damaged and not working properly. You can check to see if it is cycling on off properly by looking at the clutch plate face in the middle of the compressor pulley. Here is a video of compressor that is cycling on and off properly.

If your compressor is not cycling on then you should seek the help of an AC Professional immediately. Ignoring the problem will not make it go away and in fact it could make matters worse. Other possible causes are blown relays and fuses, defective sensors, or a stuck blender door. Seek the help of an AC Professional to assist you in determining the cause in your particular case.

The most common reasons for the pressure gauge to indicate a red/high pressure reading are the car is not running, or the A/C is not on with the fan switch set to high and the temperature at its coldest setting. In order to obtain an accurate pressure reading the car must be running, the A/C set to the coldest position, and the fan setting set to high. Also, as the car’s compressor cycles on and off, the needle on the gauge will move in and out of the red/high pressure area of the gauge. This is normal. Here is an example of a car compressor cycling on and off:

The blue bezel turns on the gauge so that you can set the pressure range as it relates to the outside temperature. Here is how it works: determine the outside temperature around your car. Turn the bezel so that the arrow points to the outside temperature. Notice the “V” shape on the dial.

Gauge Face with Temperature Finder

This is the appropriate pressure range based on the ambient (outside) temperature. When reading the pressure, if the arrow is below the range then charge the car until the needle on the pressure gauge is in the range. If it is above the upper end of the range your system is overcharged. In this case you should seek the help of a qualified technician to recover refrigerant from your system to bring the system back into the proper range. Never vent A/C refrigerant into the atmosphere. It is harmful to the environment and illegal to do so.

The smiley face on the bottom of the can is actually a pressure relief vent to help release the pressure of the can should it become overheated. The refrigerant in the can is a high pressure gas. As with any gas it expands when heated. Therefore you should never leave or store any cans of refrigerant in your car compartment as they could overheat and rupture the can. You should always store the cans in a cool dry spot in your house.

No. Not only is it harmful to the environment to vent refrigerant into the atmosphere, it is also illegal. Violation of this Federal Law may carry a fine of up to $25,000. If you need to recover refrigerant from your system please seek the help of a qualified service technician.

Vent temperature will vary. Some newer cars may have vent temperatures that are below 50°F while older model cars’ vent temperatures may be in the mid-50′s to low 60′s.

YES! This is one of the easiest jobs that you can do yourself on your vehicle. Please click through the following FAQ’s to learn more on using our products to recharge your car’s air conditioning:

Locating low-side service port

How to recharge with a T-handle or Gauge-Handle style recharge hose

How to recharge with a trigger style recharge hose

How much refrigerant should I put in

I get two pressure readings while checking my low-side pressure, which one should I use?

Why does the blue bezel on some of your gauges turn?

Typical Automotive AC System

R134a system pressure chart

Please feel free to call our technical support line for further help at 888-318-5454

You need to wear gloves for a couple reasons. First as you release refrigerant from the can into your vehicles A/C system the can will become very cold to the touch. In addition you are working around the vehicle as it is running and there will be hot surfaces that could possibly burn you. So in order to protect your hands from the cold can and possible burns it is always recommended that you wear cloth lined gloves and don’t forget your safety eye wear.

In order to prepare a new compressor for installation you will need to prime it. If you do not prime the compressor properly you could seriously damage it, and void the warranty on the product. Priming a compressor consists of adding oil to both the receiver dryer and the suction port of the compressor. Before starting you will need to know the oil capacity for your system and your compressor. You can check here to get the system specs for your specific vehicle.

Once you have determined the proper amount of lubricant for your particular compressor,  pour half of the amount specified into the suction port of the compressor, and the other half of the specified amount into the receiver dryer.

Once you have installed the compressor back onto your car you will need rotate the compressor clutch 10-20 times to insure that the oil is properly distributed throughout the system and the compressor. To do this you will need a spanner wrench.

Typical Spanner Wrench Set

Do not turn the compressor nut in the middle of the pulley as this may affect the air clearance between the clutch pulley and the clutch face plate. After you have rotated the pulley 10 to 20 complete revolutions, the compressor will be properly primed.

If the compressor is engaging, the center of the compressor clutch will turn with the outer pulley. If the pulley does not turn and there is a loud squeal, this usually indicates a locked up compressor. The compressor and drier will need to be replaced.

Here is a video showing a compressor that is running properly.

If the refrigerant charge is low the low pressure cut out or low pressure cycling switch can prevent the clutch from engaging. Adding refrigerant should alleviate the problem.

You can tell if you compressor is cycling on and off by looking at the clutch (or belt pulley) at the front of the compressor. The center of this clutch (see below image) should be spinning when the compressor cycles on. Please note that the pulley itself will always spin while the center of the clutch may not. Here is a video of a compressor cycling on and off properly.

When you overcharge your system you a pressure cut off switch is activated to stop your A/C compressor from running. This in turn will cause your system to blow warm air. If this happens you will need to go to a car A/C professional and have the excess refrigerant recovered from your system. Remember it is illegal to vent refrigerant from your system, and the government can impose stiff fines for failure to follow these rules

If your A/C is not blowing cold you probably are low on refrigerant due to a leak. Most leaks are in rubber components such as O-rings, hoses and gaskets. (See General section above on how to determine if you have a mechanical problem instead).

The best way to find leaks is with our R-134a UV Leak Detection Kit (part # 436) which provides UV dye, high-intensity UV light and yellow tinted protective glasses

Yes. The dye will not affect A/C performance.

Yes, the dye will continue to work the same way.

Our R-134a Super Seal (# 325 and MRL-3) seals leaks in metal components (condensers, evaporators, accumulators, receiver/driers). It also seals leaks in rubber parts (hoses, o-rings, gaskets). It works by swelling the rubber in these components to close the holes. Note: Use (# 326) for R12/R22 systems. Our R-134a Stop Leak & Detector (LDS-1) seals leaks in rubber parts including o-rings, hoses and gaskets and includes o-ring conditioners.

The leak sealer will take effect within 1 day of installation.

It of course depends on the nature of the leak, but typically leaks are sealed for approx 12 months of A/C usage.

They seal small holes that leak less than one can per month.

Yes. IDQ “System Safe” leak sealer is a gentle o-ring conditioner that does not destroy o-rings.

No. For the reason in 9 above.

IDQ “System Safe” leak sealer will rejuvenate and condition your o-rings. There is no deterioration over time.

Stop Leak & Detector (LDS-1) has both leak sealer (for rubber components) and red dye to help you spot the location of any larger leaks that are too big to seal and require replacement.

Super Seal (#323 & MRL-3) seals leaks in both rubber and metal components. It is recommended as a potential fix for older vehicles that are not candidates for mechanical repair. And can also be used in newer vehicles.

Yes, and IDQ leak sealers are specially formulated to gently rejuvenate your o-rings without damaging them.

Your system will leak less refrigerant than it did previously. You cannot find a leak with the UV light that was there previously. Your system continues to blow cold air.

You should seek professional help.

No. The system must be retrofitted first.

Any leak fixed by Super Seal during a recharge will create a permanent bond that will not leak from that point again. In addition Super Seal will continue to flow through the A/C system as a lubricant and seal any new leaks that may develop which makes it great for preventative maintenance.

Arctic Freeze® Ultra Synthetic is a patented R-134a refrigerant chemistry formulated and designed to enhance the performance of A/C systems. It contains advanced QwikBoost® chemistry developed for the United States Air Force Research Laboratory and NASA to provide more efficient cooling.

Arctic Freeze products also contain Acid Neutralizers, Leak Sealers and O-Ring Conditioners.  The active chemistry in Arctic Freeze® Ultra allows R-134a refrigerant to carry more heat. When it reaches the evaporator in a vehicle’s A/C system, the active chemistry causes the R-134a to come out of the solution and increases the system’s cooling capacity, which means your car cools faster! Arctic Freeze® contains R-134a refrigerant and is compatible in all R-134a systems.

The active chemistry in Arctic Freeze® Ultra allows R-134a refrigerant to carry more heat. When it reaches the evaporator in a vehicle’s A/C system, the active chemistry causes the R-134a to come out of the solution and increases the system’s cooling capacity, which means your car cools faster!

It remains active for the life of the system.

Yes, Arctic Freeze® contains R-134a refrigerant and is compatible in all R-134a systems.

Please click the here to view the R134a oil specs. by vehicle make.

Need help finding your low side port? Use our Low Side Port Finder.

All service work should be performed from the low-side service port. The high side service port is used for pressure testing only. NEVER charge refrigerant into the high-pressure side, as the pressure could cause the refrigerant can to burst resulting in serious injury.

All service work should be performed from the low-side service port. The high side service port is used for pressure testing only. NEVER charge refrigerant into the high-pressure side, as the pressure could cause the refrigerant can to burst resulting in serious injury.

All service work should be performed from the low-side service port. The high side service port is used for pressure testing only. NEVER charge refrigerant into the high-pressure side, as the pressure could cause the refrigerant can to burst resulting in serious injury.

All service work should be performed from the low-side service port. The high side service port is used for pressure testing only. NEVER charge refrigerant into the high-pressure side, as the pressure could cause the refrigerant can to burst resulting in serious injury.

All service work should be performed from the low-side service port. The high side service port is used for pressure testing only. NEVER charge refrigerant into the high-pressure side, as the pressure could cause the refrigerant can to burst resulting in serious injury.

All service work should be performed from the low-side service port. The high side service port is used for pressure testing only. NEVER charge refrigerant into the high-pressure side, as the pressure could cause the refrigerant can to burst resulting in serious injury.

POE (or polyol ester) based flush is a safer more effective a/c system flush than the more common Terpene based or solvent flush. POE based flushes have a higher flash point, no offensive odor, and will not harm system components. Any trace left behind is compatible with the air conditioner’s component parts, POE or PAG lubricant, and, is miscible with 134a refrigerant.

A system should be flushed when repairs are being done and the system is opened to the air. However, if a “closed system” retrofit is being performed and the system is not opened, no flushing is required to remove contaminants.

Most OEM’s do not recommend flushing procedures. There are many components that cannot be flushed such as the compressor, receiver driver, expansion device, and in many cases the condenser. We recommend that you seek professional help when attempting to flush an AC system.

If you are constantly adding refrigerant to your system you have a leak. If your car is over five years old then chances are the o-rings and gaskets have become brittle and inelastic causing small leaks throughout the system. Adding a refrigerant with a leak sealer and o-ring condition will help to correct this problem.

When an A/C system leaks refrigerant, some oil escapes also. Interdynamics’ top off products all have the proper ratio of oil to refrigerant already blended to replace the lost oil.

For Retrofitting and top-offs, use Interdynamics products that include Polyol Ester oil. When rebuilding a system that has been opened and flushed, use a pourable PAG oil of the viscosity that is recommended by the compressor manufacturer.

Please click the here to view the R134a oil specs. by vehicle make.

ICE32® is a performance enhancer that is added to some of our lubricants and oil charges. It reduces friction which cuts down wear on metal parts and seals – extending compressor life. It helps to keep the compressor clean and prevents oxidation and acid formation. It also cuts humidity – meaning it keeps air drier to help improve cabin comfort.

IDQ’s “High Mileage” refrigerant contains a proprietary formulation of lubricant enhancers that helps your old compressor run easier. This will make the compressor last longer and run quieter. It contains special anti-wear and lubricant additives to restore an older A/C systems performance.

Special electrically insulating refrigerant oil is used to keep voltage from leaking to the compressor case through the oil. According to the hybrid manufacturers if even a small amount of another oil is introduced into the system, it may significantly decrease the electrical insulation properties causing compressor damage. The introduction of the wrong oil can cause a diagnostic trouble code that disables the air conditioning system. Hybrid vehicle makers also warn that if the wrong oil is introduced into, and circulated through the system, all of the main A/C parts (such as the evaporator, condenser, receiver/drier, and compressor) must be replaced. They recommend a dedicated manifold gauge set be used when charging the system to ensure that any residual refrigerant oil left in the manifold gauges from refrigerant recovery on other vehicles does not enter the air conditioning system and deteriorate the insulating performance of the special oil. Our HYB-1 and HYB-2 meet the OEM criteria for hybrid A/C lubricants.

No, you cannot mix R12 and R134 gases. If you have an R12 system that you would like to repair, you will need to use our retrofit kit to make it compatible with R134-a gas. Retrofitting a system is much easier than you think and we have detailed instructions and a video to guide you through the process. If you are still not sure and would like to speak with someone further about retrofitting your system, call our technical help desk at 888-318-5454.

Recharging an R12 system has become price prohibitive. If your old R12 system needs repairs or has lost refrigerant, the timing could be right for you to convert your system from R12 to R134a using the Quest Retrofit Kit.

The EPA states that the “procedures required for a least-cost retrofit are simple and do not require major component changes. Generally, the process calls for the removal of the oil refrigerant, installation of new fittings and a new label and the addition of either a polyalkylene glycol (PAG) or polyol ester (POE or ester) lubricant as well as the R134a refrigerant”… EPA

An open system retrofit is when the air conditioner system is opened, allowing air to enter the system. This is necessary if there is to be any repairs made at the time the retrofit is performed. Once the system is opened the accumulator or filter dryer should be replaced and a vacuum pulled before adding refrigerant. A closed system retrofit is made when no repairs are necessary and the air conditioner is not opened. Following the EPA procedures, the R-12 refrigerant is removed (it must be reclaimed), new oil; fittings, 134a refrigerant and a label are added.

It was originally assumed that the smaller R134a molecule could cause leakage, but tests have proven that the hoses and o-rings do not need to be replaced to prevent leaking. In fact, General Motors states that: “o-rings and hoses in most GM vehicles are compatible with R134a and do not need replacement during retrofit.”

The higher pressure of R134a was believed at one time to cause compressor failure. It was later found that by using 15 to 20 percent less R134a, operating pressures would remain essentially the same as R12 and not require a new compressor.

Since the refrigerant carries the lubricant throughout the system, the oil must be soluble with the refrigerant or it will remain in the bottom of the air conditioner. There are two recommended oils, polyalkylene glycol (PAG) and polyol ester (Ester). Both are soluble in R134a, either will give acceptable lubrication, and both are compatible with the existing mineral oil.

No. The mineral oil in an R-12 system is compatible with either PAG or Ester oil. With the Quest Retrofit Kit, PAG oil is added with retrofit additives. These additives enable the system to use the existing mineral oil.

The original equipment manufacturers have chosen to outfit all new R134a vehicles with PAG oil. Therefore, since PAG oil is the new OEM standard, Quest has chosen to use PAG oil in their Retrofit Kit.

Our 320 is for retrofitting an R-12 to R-134a system and includes conversion oil, reusable recharge hose and retrofit valves but requires additional refrigerant. The 323 is a complete recharge and retrofit kit that includes high mileage refrigerant and retrofit oil and reusable recharge hose with gauge handle for reading the low-side pressure side of the A/C system. The RKR-8 EZ Chill Recharge and Retrofit Kit includes high mileage refrigerant and oil + easy-to-use reusable trigger dispenser with built-in gauge and “How-To” CD.

The Quest Retrofit Kit was the original closed system retrofit kit on the market. It has been used in over a million retrofits since it’s introduction in 1993.

No. It is not necessary to flush before retrofitting. The decision on whether or not to flush should be made on other mechanical requirements, (ie: compressor failure, contamination, etc.) not on retrofitting.

Yes. The piece has three parts. The tapping valve, the hose and the quick-couple connector. The tapping valve uses a plastic housing with a brass insert to prevent cross threading, a metal handle, metal shaft, and a metal piercing pin. The quick-couple connector uses a plastic sleeve with metal ball bearings and a metal locking ring.

No. There are two reasons for choosing aluminum. First, the service port that the valve is being screwed onto is made of aluminum. If you are putting steel on an aluminum port, you run a greater risk of stripping the port, a costly repair. Secondly, different metals expand and contract at different temperatures. By using different metals there is a greater risk of leakage due to weather-related expansion and contraction.

Smart-Charge accurately measures pressure and charges all R-134a A/C systems by calculating ambient temperature and the A/C system’s low-side pressure. It uses easy-to-read indicator lights and alarms to alert you of the system’s condition and to advise the proper course of action. It takes the guess work out of recharging your A/C system.

AA-type alkaline batteries are OK. But for longer life use rechargeable NiCd or NiMh.

Dispense refrigerant gas iin 15 second increments and check pressure and vent temperature at each interval. You should expect to hold the charging lever in for a total of at least 1 minute to get approximately one 12 ounce can installed (outside temperature and vehicle condition will affect this time). The green light (Proper Charge) will come on when you are properly charged.

The while light on the unit will stay on and the unit cannot shut off manually. You can reset the unit by changing the batteries.

Yes, it is ok to leave the partially filled can on the unit until the next time you need to use the refrigerant to charge a system.

Quest Sub-Zero Synthetic A/C Booster creates a boundary of lubricant on the surface of all metal component parts of the air conditioning system, including the compressor. Quest Sub-Zero Synthetic A/C Booster increases heat transfer by guarding against lubricant migration on the heat exchange surfaces of the evaporator and condenser coil. By eliminating the energy robbing barriers caused by stagnate oil build up and carbon deposits, the system requires less energy and cools more efficiently.

Quest Sub-Zero Synthetic A/C Booster prevents oxidation and sludge formation, extends the compressor life, and reduces engine drag. With this lubricant you can expect up to 18% cooler air and increased gas mileage.

A typical application of 2 ounces will treat the average automotive system on the road today.

The following products have SubZero Synthetic A/C Booster: 322 ReChill Kit, 343 14 oz booster with shelf saver top (no tools required), 345 18 oz booster with reusable recharge hose (no tools required) , and 347 12 oz booster.

No, Sub-Zero Synthetic A/C Booster is designed for both original equipment R134a systems and retrofitted R134a systems and is compatible with both PAG and Ester lubricants.

While in the air conditioning system, it remains a liquid lubricant and contains additives to penetrate and rejuvenate o-rings, gaskets and other rubber connectors to prevent leakage. Included in Super Seal is a drying agent that gets rid of any moisture that may be inside the air conditioner. If the refrigerant leak occurs in a metal part, the refrigerant leaves the system and chills the outside air causing condensation. This moisture activates the Super Seal fluid to form a scab on the exterior of the metal.

Super Seal has sealed leaks in over 1,000,000 vehicles since it’s introduction in early 2000. This moisture activated sealant technology has long been used in the gas transfer industry, sealing leaks in pipes, tanks, and other gas filled containers.

Super Seal will repair most leaks. However, if the system cannot hold a charge for 24 hours, the leak is too large and probably needs manual repair. If the system is leaking slowly and holds a charge for more than two weeks, Super Seal should seal the leak. Super Seal will seal multiple holes in both the metal and rubber parts of the air conditioning system. Super Seal is an inexpensive alternative considering a repair that could be in $1000 range.

There is enough Quest Super Seal in a single application to seal multiple holes in both the metal and rubber parts of the air conditioning system.

Super Seal has a lower boiling point than the refrigerant oil. This enables the Super Seal to be removed from the system as the refrigerant either leaks out or is removed.

No. Super Seal contains a drying agent to prevent any moisture in the filter/dryer from congealing. However, it is highly recommended that the filter/dryer be changed anytime the air conditioner is open for repairs. This improves cooling and prevents wear and tear on other air conditioner parts. It is also recommended that refrigerant be added right after adding Super Seal so it may be dispersed throughout the entire air conditioner.

No. The chemical formulation remains in a liquid state inside the a/c system until it detects moisture at the leak point and self-seals. Super Seal contains a drying agent to prevent any sealing activity while in the system. Super Seal will be removed from the system with the refrigerant as it either leaks out or is removed.(See installation instructions.)

No. When refrigerant is removed by recycling equipment, Super Seal, as a liquid, is separated from the refrigerant and extracted with the waste oil. It is then discarded with the waste oil.

Yes. The sealant technology in Super Seal has been used for decades in the underground gas transfer industry, sealing leaks in pipes, tanks, compressors, and other gas filled containers.

Part number 325 & MRL-3 (R134a Super Seal) only works in R134a systems or R12 systems that have been converted to R134a. Part number 326 will work on R12 and R22 systems, this product has a special application system that allows it to be used with multiple refrigerants.

One can of Super Seal is all you need to seal pin hole sized leaks in your system. In order to determine the size of your leak use the following rule of thumb: your car must be able to hold a refrigerant charge for at least two weeks. If you car can hold a charge for two weeks before blowing warm again, then Super Seal will be able to patch your leak. If you have a large hole or leak using two cans of Super Seal will not help.

Any leak fixed by Super Seal during a recharge will create a permanent bond that will not leak from that point again. In addition Super Seal will continue to flow through the A/C system as a lubricant and seal any new leaks that may develop which makes it great for preventative maintenance.